'Displeased Hermès CEO voices dissatisfaction over the appearance of pre-owned Birkin bags'
The resale of Birkin bags, one of the most iconic luxury items produced by Hermès, has come under scrutiny from the company's CEO, Axel Dumas. He has expressed his displeasure over the practice, stating that it undermines Hermès' relationship with its genuine customers.
Dumas explained that the appearance of brand-new Birkins on resale platforms suggests that some purchasers buy the bags solely to resell them, rather than as authentic customers. This practice prevents Hermès from serving its true customer base and damages the emotional and service bond the brand seeks to build with them.
"I pull a face, and I’m not happy," Dumas said, referring to his reaction upon seeing new Birkins sold in the secondhand market. He further added, "Sometimes, false customers come into our stores to buy the bags and resell them, preventing us from serving our real customers - that's a real problem for us."
The resale market dilutes the exclusivity and disrupts the intimate relationship Hermès aims to cultivate with its authentic buyers. This is because the practice introduces "false customers" who buy bags with the intent to resell, thereby blocking access for real customers who want to experience the brand's exclusivity and service.
The Birkin Bag, named after British actress and singer Jane Birkin, was first introduced in 1984. It has since become one of Hermès' most iconic products, popular among buyers and sellers. However, the popularity of the Birkin Bag has also led to a flood of imitations and counterfeits, making it difficult for consumers to distinguish between genuine and fake products.
Despite these challenges, Hermès has continued its strong sales trend, reporting a quarterly revenue of €8 billion, an 8% increase compared to the same period last year. This is in contrast to Hermès' biggest French competitor, LVMH, which reported a 4% drop in revenue and a 22% drop in net profit in the first half of 2025.
While Koyaana Redstar, an expert in authenticating vintage designer bags, stated that buying a bag to resell isn't usually profitable, she added that it's possible to make a profit with some classic bags from brands like Hermès and Goyard if bought at the regular retail price and then resold on the secondary market.
In light of these developments, it is clear that the resale market presents both opportunities and challenges for luxury brands like Hermès. While it offers a potential avenue for increased sales, it also risks damaging the brand's relationship with its genuine customers and undermining the exclusivity and emotional connection that the brand seeks to maintain.
[1] Business of Fashion, "Hermès CEO Slams Resale Market for Undermining Brand’s Relationship with Customers," 2025. [2] CNBC, "Hermès CEO Axel Dumas on the Resale Market: 'I Pull a Face,'" 2025. [3] The Guardian, "The Birkin Bag: A Timeless Icon of Luxury," 2020. [4] Financial Times, "Hermès Reports Strong Sales Despite Luxury Market Challenges," 2025. [5] WWD, "LVMH Reports Drop in Revenue and Net Profit in First Half of 2025," 2025.
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