Leaders' Views on the Impact: Is Synthetically Grown Cotton Threatening Organic Cotton?
In the world of cotton production, the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) has been a prominent name, often associated with sustainable and improved practices. However, a closer look at the facts reveals a more complex picture.
BCI cotton, as it is known, requires farmers to use the same brand's fertilizers, which are often fossil-based synthetic ones. This can lead to a vicious cycle of debt for thousands of farmers, as the high cost of these chemicals contributes to financial struggles that, in some tragic cases, have led to farmer suicides.
The reliance on these chemicals also has environmental consequences. Chemical farming, as practiced under BCI, kills off microorganisms in the soil, necessitating more synthetic fertilizers to maintain productivity. This not only harms the soil but also contributes to greenhouse gas emissions.
Monsanto, a company well-known for its genetically modified cotton seeds, holds a significant market share in the cottonseed industry. In some countries, estimates suggest that Monsanto's share is as high as 90%. The use of these seeds, combined with the BCI program, has not resulted in a reduction of pesticide use in countries like India and Pakistan.
Organic cotton, grown without chemicals, offers a more sustainable alternative. It has about half the CO2 footprint compared to BCI and conventional cotton. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a leading standard for processing organic fibers, including cotton, and covers both ecological and social criteria.
However, the BCI has been criticized for hindering the use of organic cotton while promoting its own initiative. The organization has come under fire for its lack of traceability and binding requirements for farmers to reduce chemical use. Moreover, there's no evidence that workers on BCI farms receive better wages or shorter working hours than their non-BCI counterparts.
The BCI's latest principles state that fertilizers can affect soil quality, water, and biodiversity, and are a major source of greenhouse gas emissions. However, they do not ban these fertilizers or provide alternative methods, instead passing the responsibility onto farmers to make well-informed decisions about fertilizer application.
The story of a cotton farmer in Gujarat, India, who took his own life due to years of accumulated debt from a seed merchant, underscores the human cost of the current system. Thousands of farmers fall ill with cancer due to the harmful insecticides used in cotton farming, partially because they grow their food crops right next to their cotton fields.
Despite these concerns, brands continue to cite a lack of organic cotton availability as a reason for using BCI. However, the actual demand for GOTS cotton is so low that about half of harvested cotton is sold as conventional cotton without any premium. Brands could opt for "In Conversion GOTS Cotton" and support farmers transitioning to organic farming methods and GOTS certification.
Cotton farming supports the livelihood of around 100 million households, 90% of which live in low-income countries. One ton of cotton creates an average of five jobs, often in some of the poorest regions of the world. However, the transition from conventional to organic farming requires additional investment from brands, a process that takes at least three years.
In conclusion, while the Better Cotton Initiative aims to improve the lives of farmers and reduce the environmental impacts of chemical-based cotton production, independent studies have yet to verify these claims. The continued use of harmful chemicals, the hindrance of organic cotton, and the lack of accountability for farmers remain significant concerns. It is crucial for brands and consumers to make informed decisions about the cotton they use and support.
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