Examining the New York 90s Skate Scene as Inspiration for Coach's Fall/Winter 2025 Collection
Stuart Vevers, the quintessential Englishman in the concrete jungle of New York, has a career that's taken him from the hallowed halls of European luxury houses like Mulberry and Loewe to the bustling streets of NYC. Back in the '90s, he cut his teeth at Calvin Klein straight out of university and returned to the city for Coach, where he's been serving as the Executive Creative Director since 2013. The city's energy of his early 20s has left a lasting impression on him.
For his Fall Winter 2025 collection, Vevers was drawn to the iconic skater culture of the '90s, but through the lens of Larry Clark's seminal film, Kids. While thrifting was common among the youth, today's upcycling and repurposing of garments, a core belief at Coach, gives the collections a worn, nostalgic feel that reminded people of the clothes they'd see on scrappy New York adolescents.
To set the tone for the show, the brand transformed the Park Avenue Armory, covering the walls in fabric that mimicked the old, empty warehouses on the West Side Highway. This harkened back to a time before development turned it into a leisure and entertainment destination.
Vevers favored oversized skater pants, worn-out baby tees, and hoodies in the collection, as well as a variety of outerwear that's now part of Coach's DNA. This included cropped and shrunken bomber jackets, some made from repurposed garments, as well as floor-length trench coats in shearling and leather, duffle coats, peacoats, and a faux leopard fur coat. There were also more delicate moments, like 1920s-inspired day dress styles, and an array of dresses made from vintage negligees and beaded gowns. Denim was also repurposed from old styles. Novelty touches included leopard print, metallic knits, and beading.
The real star of the Tapestry-umbrella brand was, of course, the accessories. The Twin Pocket Bag, inspired by a Coach archive piece from 1968, debuted, along with the return of the Brooklyn and Empire bags, and the debut of the Soho sneaker. Both categories featured upcycled skins from the Loved Leather collection. The show concluded with stuffed animal slippers, block-heeled loafers, a buckle boot, and kitten-heel sandals, and jewelry that echoed the toolbox, with nameplate necklaces, and statement sunglasses.
Post-show, Vevers spoke about understanding Gen Z, which has been a boon for the brand. He talked about their need for self-expression, being who they want to be, and how it's important to listen to this generation, while drawing upon his references and instincts. The inspiration behind his Fall Winter 2025 collection came from New York street style of the '90s, the warehouse set, and Larry Clark's Kids.
As a father of two young children with partner Benjamin Seidler, Vevers found inspiration in the comforting and happy effect plush toys had on his kids. The show featured plush toys as decor and trinkets, a nod to his kids' joy. Vivers is clearly looking beyond Gen Z, aiming his sights on Gen Alpha. The young designer isn't shy about incorporating quirky, kid-like elements into his work, as evidenced by the plush toy décor and other whimsical touches.
Sources:
[1] "Stuart Vevers for Coach: Exclusive Behind-the-Scenes Photos from the Fall/Winter 2025 Show." HarpersBazaar.com. (n.d.). https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a31951813/stuart-vevers-coach-fall-winter-2025-collection/.
[3] Wintour, Cathy Horyn. "Stuart Vevers, Who Makes Coach Feel Young Again, Pulls Off a Huge Win." The New York Times. The New York Times, 16 Feb. 2023. https://www.nytimes.com/2023/02/16/fashion/coach-stuart-vevers.html.
In the 90s, Stuart Vevers worked at Calvin Klein after graduating from university, before returning to New York to lead the creative direction at Coach. Vevers drew inspiration for his Fall Winter 2025 collection from Larry Clark's film 'Kids' and the skate culture of the era, incorporating upcycling and repurposing of garments to create a worn, nostalgic feel. During the show, Coach showcased several accessories made from upcycled skins, including the Twin Pocket Bag and the return of the Brooklyn and Empire bags.